The Peruvian Andes are quite hilly (to put it mildly), and it didn’t take long to learn on our first jaunt here in 2010 that it’s best to carry as little as possible. The luxury on the Great Divide route…
Puna 9: Part 4a – Pissis (a traverse)
Cycling to high mountains on the Puna is the best preparation we know of for making an ascent. It renders the trip as a whole far tougher and longer (though more rewarding), but by the time you reach the base…
Puna 9: Part 3 – Tres Cruces Sur and Central, and El Muerto
In December 1936 a group of four Poles, along with their guide, four muleteers, 23 mules and two horses set out for the heart of the Puna. Rumour had it there were some high peaks in the area, and they…
Puna 9: Part 2 – El Condor
Our immediate problem in Antofagasta was finding Pesos. After a fruitless search we visited the cops, listened to a rant against La Presidenta (‘Hot Lips‘ as we like to call her) and then were led into one of those fortunate…
Puna 9: Part 1 – Llullaillaco and Antofalla
For remoteness, San Pedro to Antofagasta easily trumped anything we’d previously pedalled. Leaving the Argie border guards at Paso Socompa we each stocked up with 17 litres of mineral water, then turned south for Llullaillaco. Still with 14 days of…