‘How odd that there are no tourists here’, I said to Harriet for the fiftieth time. As she’d wandered round Namche looking for a room I’d lazed on some steps in the main street. Half an hour had passed and still…
Kathmandu Recommendations
Nowadays we don’t travel with country guidebooks, preferring to just use maps and trekking guides. So when we come to larger cities and towns it normally takes us a few days of trial and error and asking for recommendations to…
January in Rolwaling: Running from rocks, dressing in down
As we traced fingers across maps, planning pre-departure routes from the comfort of our London flat, the Tashi Labsta pass was integral. It’s the most aesthetic route into Solu Khumbu from the west. No backtracking, no days of trudging up,…
Langtang: Peaks, Lodges and Snow
Few places in the world can boast such accessible mountain grandeur as the Langtang Valley north of Kathmandu. Two days on easy trails took us from the roadhead at Syabru Besi to Kyanjin Gompa. Nestled in the shadow of mighty…
Ganesh Himal: A Nepali Shangri La
We set off up the vertical climb to Keraunja in low spirits. The Manaslu experience had been disappointing, but as we were still loving the high Himalayan passes the thought of a week in the foothills did not fill us…