We set off up the vertical climb to Keraunja in low spirits. The Manaslu experience had been disappointing, but as we were still loving the high Himalayan passes the thought of a week in the foothills did not fill us with euphoria. With no 8,000er or famous pass to champion its cause, we knew little about the Ganesh Himal region, and neither it seems do other visitors to Nepal. For some reason the area is almost completely ignored by foreign trekkers.

And this, along with the unexpectedly stunning mountain panoramas and wonderful warm hospitality we were shown by Gurung and Tamang villagers at every turn proved to be its biggest attractions. Being invited to stay at peoples’ homes made for unforgettable evenings, sitting round fires chatting to Kathmandu-educated teenagers as their parents quietly made wicker baskets or sharpened khukuris, only occasionally piping up to ask us something about our lives back home. The contrast with the week before and the not-so-authentic ‘homestays’ on the Manaslu Circuit was stark.

The trails in Ganesh Himal were the steepest we found anywhere. Frequently small and hard to follow it meant we spent some time lost and crossed a few ridges at unusual places, but the true path always revealed itself eventually. These scenic detours didn’t bother us too much – we felt more suited to this kind of trekking than following the motorway trails of Annapurna and Manaslu. As we pulled ourselves up slopes thick with bamboo and rhododendron we felt we’d found a bit more adventure. Though the altitudes were modest, the days weren’t easy. Large climbs were inevitably followed by equally long and perpendicular descents, through spectacular tumbling terraces and in valleys we came to think of as Nepali Shangri Las. A tranquil, unspoilt world was it really only a couple of days’ travel from the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu?

Having expected so little from Ganesh Himal it rewarded us in spades and left us reinvigorated for the remaining half of our trek across Nepal.

Click here for our full Ganesh Himal photoset on Flickr.

Terracing in Ganesh Himal. This is only a couple of hours from the Manaslu Circuit, but what a difference those few kms made! Our subdued moods immediately improved on the quiet paths, between unspoilt villages populated with warm and hospitable Tamang and Gurung people.

Surveying the peaks of Ganesh Himal. Ganesh IV is the high peak on the left, Ganesh III is to its right.

Boran – another beautifully located and unspoilt village.

On the walk to Tipling. We loved these terraces, which often tumbled 1,000 vertical metres down the hillsides.

Nearing Tipling. Ganesh IV on the left, Ganesh III on the right.

On the descent to Gatlang. We’d crossed the Pansan and Khurpudada passes by this stage, so the views had changed. The Langtang peaks are now the ones in the background.