After so long in the mountains the final month of our South America cycle was a relaxing warm-down from the challenges and strains of the Andes. For a few days we raced across La Rioja, covering large distances on flat, tarmac roads. But the initial excitement at going over 20kph wore off and boredom set in. More and more as our trip has progressed we’ve realized that for us the joy of cycle touring comes from a feeling of adventure, exploring unknown corners, and meeting people in villages which rarely see an outsider.

Having been tormented by the winds so often in the Andes we toyed with the idea of simply going with the wind at every junction we encountered, but with only southerly winds this year we were more likely to end up in Peru than Buenos Aires, so quickly abandoned the plan. Instead we took out our maps, traced a rough route southeast on small roads, and after a night camping in the centre of Chepes, a small town which hosted a surprisingly loud rock concert until dawn, we returned to bumping along on dirt tracks in search of something more interesting.

We were soon coming across small, poor villages which have been left behind by the modern world. Settlements with no electricity or running water, basic houses with earth floors, and reduced populations due to migration following more than a decade of droughts in the region. On these farm roads wildlife abounded. Iguanas, snakes, hawks, gulls, armadillos, cuy, even the odd flamingo and swan. In some areas we were constantly pelted by grasshoppers, panicking at our approach.

Interrupting our flat riding was the hilly province of Cordoba, and cycling in its Sierras proved a real treat. We took some truly beautiful routes, many of them old roads which had been left to decay and which we mostly just shared with local mountain bikers. There was so much climbing and descending to do that we were up and down more than a whore’s drawers, amidst fresh greenness which was reminiscent of a Europe we’d spent too long away from.

After Cordoba the monotonous scenery of the pampa began. Endless fields of soya and maize, thousands upon thousands of Argentine cattle gorging themselves on succulent pampa grass, a grid of overcrowded and dangerous (to cycle) paved roads with a maze of dirt farm tracks in between. We cycled 1,000kms and climbed less than 1,000m, which came as a relief to Haz and her gears as her middle chainring had worn out, and any hills resulted in painfully slow gear changes and torrents of industrial language worthy of any Wayne Rooney goal celebration.

As we’d learnt near the start of our trip however when cycling to the Andes, the lack of interesting scenery was made up for by the incredibly friendly, warm hearted and community minded locals. In Las Acequias, Ameghino, Cañuelas and others we met so many kind people and made many good friends.

The easy, flat cycling gave us plenty of time to zone out and reflect on all the experiences we’ve had this past year and a half – the fantastic people we’ve met and spectacular roads we’ve cycled. After 21,000kms we rolled into Cañuelas, checked in at the firestation and packed away our bikes, knowing that never again will we take for granted such luxuries as a comfy bed, a decent shower, being indoors in bad weather, or being able to drink a bottle of tasty fresh water. We won’t forget an old lady we asked for water in a small village in western Bolivia. Filling up our bottles with a big toothy grin on her face she proudly told us how lucky we were as her village was blessed with delicious agua dulce, much tastier than any of the water found in neighbouring villages. How right she was.

Despite all this thinking time on the bikes we still haven’t settled on a definitive plan for the next few years. But this cycling lark is addictive. In the immediate future we’ll be throwing ourselves into some of our favourite hobbies: searching for jobs and a place to stay; and then maybe we’ll try and cheer ourselves up by dreaming up plans for another trip.

If (when) we do set off with the bikes again we’ll let you all know. Thanks for reading!

Cycling stats:
Days getting from Villa Union to Cañuelas – 28 days
Distance – 2,001km
Time cycling – 128hrs
Average speed – 15.6kph
Cycle days – 23
Rainy cycle days – 3
Maximum speeds – 56.0kph (N), H ? (lost her cycle computer last month)
Unpaved roads – 1,262km
Longest day – 122km
100+km days – 7
Punctures – 3H(19), 4N(14)

Total amount climbed – 8,000m
Maximum altitude reached – 2,236m
Most climbed in one day – 1,606m
1000m+ climb days – 3
Steepest climb – 19%

Number of cycle tourists we met en route – 0

Accommodation – 7 beds, 11 camps, 10 wild camps

New beers drunk – Cordoba

Hiking Stats:
None

Photos:

Videos:
To see recently uploaded videos from our loop on the Puna in February and from our month heading to Buenos Aires, click here.